It begins: First seeds

Finally!  Even though there’s still 6 inches of snow covering everything, I’m planting!

My firsts under the lights include the cold hardy salads, mustards, and brassicas.  They germinated in the dark and after a week they’re a bit leggy.  Hopefully putting them under lights will remedy that.

Brassicas

Leggy lettuce

Mustard greens

I started Champion collards, Kolibri kohlrabi, and some rutabagas to finish off the tray.  For lettuce, I put a bunch of seed in rows in a tin tray for potting out later on.  I’ve got Buttercrunch, Fortress, Leaf (saved), Oak Leaf, Red Deer Tongue, Red Leaf (saved), and Romaine, on the go.  And then my other greens are Mizuna, Mustard, Pak Choi, and Tatsoi. Still working on the right time of year to grow these without the flea beetles or the cabbage moths getting them.

This weekend, I made some more of my “new recipe” potting soil (50% peat + 50% vermicompost) and seeded alliums, peas, spinach, and herbs.  I’m not too sure what I’m doing with some of these herbs, but I’ll start now so there’s time for corrections and replantings!

Alliums

Herbs

Snap peas

Spinach

I’m trying some new varieties of onions:  Gabriella, and Bandit leeks (in addition to Lancelot and Tadorna leeks).  The herbs I started are Bloody Dock, curled Chervil, cilantro, Good King Henry, Italian dark parsley, and sorrel.  Wish me luck.

The peas are all snap peas (my favourite!). Perhaps this year I’ll grow enough to make it into the kitchen?  Snap (saved seed), Sugar Ann, and Sugar Snap are the varieties.  And last is my dear spinach. This year I’ve add a new variety called Corvair, also sown are Bloomsdale, Space, and the most delicious Viroflay.

And for perspective, here’s a shot of my winter sowing container outside, clearly not being pampered in any way.  I wonder when the snow will all be melted this year….

Winter sown seeds wishing they were under lights instead of under snow.

 

Seed starting mix results

Context:  Observations from my manure bioassay led me to question the efficacy of my usual seed starting mix.

6 cells of each medium.  Results after 3 weeks.

Setup: Basically I grew lettuce and peas in different media to see which worked best.  The media were:  100% peat moss, 100% purchased potting mix, 100% vermicompost, 50% peat 50% vermicompost, and 50% potting mix 50% vermicompost (my usual mix). Full description here.

Materials used:  Peat moss, Miracle Gro potting mix, vermicompost, lettuce and pea seeds.

I wanted to test the materials that I usually use and have on hand.  It has been documented that using only 10% vermicompost is plently for most plants.  My percentages are much higher because for me, vermicompost is a free material that I make — I try to be as sustainable as I can so if I don’t have to buy stuff for the garden, great.  My bias would be to use 100% vermicompost.  Using higher percentages of vermicompost does not hurt plants or seedlings but does not seem to increase yield either. Others advocate using 100% vermicompost to produce the best seedlings.  I’ve had trouble using 100% vermicompost so I usually mix it with another material.  I also realize that some people are reluctant to use peat materials. I rely on Sara Williams‘ judgement.  Canadian peat moss is a sustainable industry.  It constitutes 25% of the world’s peat lands; peat regrows after 20 years; only 0.03% of Canadian peat is harvested each year; the amount of peat moss harvested from Canadian peatlands every year is nearly 60 times less than the total annual accumulation of new peat moss.  (source: The Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association) For me, peat is more economical and uses less fossil fuel for harvest, manufacture, and transportation than the oft mentioned alternative: coir.  We’re far away from tropical beaches where the coconuts grow.

Results:  Only one cell didn’t germinate:  one pea plant in 100% peat moss.   Other observations:  lettuce grew better with peat moss (both 100% peat and the 50/50 vermicompost mix); peas grew better in 100% potting soil.   Lettuce did NOT like the potting soil or the vermicompost.

100% peat moss.

100% consumer potting mix

100% vermicompost

50% peat moss, 50% vermicompost

50% potting soil, 50% vermicompost (my usual mix)

Looking at overall germination and robustness of seedlings, it appears that 50% peat moss and 50% vermicompost is the winning combination in this limited test.  I will use this combination as my seedling mix this coming gardening season.  Caveat:  this is hardly a scientific experiment and definitely not definitive.  It was interesting, and for me, something new to try.  I hope you all try out some citizen science to see what works for you with your setup and resources.

 

 

Seed starting mix experiment.

One inadvertent result of my manure bioassay was noticing that germination was quite poor in the control medium. I usually start my seeds in a 50/50 mix of purchased potting mix and vermicompost. This mix is what I compared the manure to. Lo and behold, the seeds germinated better in the manure. Hmmmm. 🤔

After observing the difference in germination between the garden manure and my standard mix, I thought I had better test some different combinations. I may need a different seed starter!

Testing setup

My control medium is 100% peat moss. I chose it because it is sterile, has no nutritional benefits, and is considered soiless (plus I had some!) The testing media are 100% potting mix, 100% vermicompost, 50/50 peat and vermicompost, and 50/50 potting soil and vermicompost (my usual mix).

Mom gave me a multi seedling container while she was cleaning out. Little did she (or I) know it is ideal for this test! I chose to try lettuce and peas for germination since they both had similar germinating times and temperature (plus I had some!)

Germination tray and setup.

Each mix got 6 cells of the tray * 5 mixes = 30 cells total. For each mix 3 cells were planted with lettuce (2 seeds) and 3 cells were planted with snap peas (1 seed). All lettuce was covered with vermiculite. All peas were planted 1 inch deep. They were watered in, the cover attached, and then popped under the grow lights (mainly for warmth).

I will provide an update after a week. I’m curious to know with what seedling mix you’ve found most success.

Manure Bioassay Germination

After problems with potato germination growing in a load of puchased manure last spring, I suspected aminopyralid contamination. I’m conducting a “citizen science” bioassay for germination and leaf curl problems to see what I can plant in these beds come the spring.

Trialling seeds.

Brassica trial seeds.

After 10 days, germination looks promising (control cells on the right). All seeds planted in the manure have germinated except some of the carrot seeds which may need more time.

Bioassay germination.

I will continue to let these seedlings grow out to see if the carrots germinate and to see if there is any leaf curl. I’m already noticing some leaf differences in the cucurbits. The cucumber seedlings in the manure pots seem more shriveled than the control plants. (See top left pot.) Stay tuned for more results.

One interesting observation is that germination rates are actually higher in the manure than in the vermicompost/potting soil! I’m trying not to put too much stock in this since the sizes of containers are different. My methods would not stand the rigors of a science lab, but my goals are different. Foremost of which is I want to find out what will grow in this soil. The brassicas seem to be doing just fine so I can add them in to the 2019 garden plan.

These preliminary results do raise questions about the efficacy of my seeding medium. I’m devising a different experiment that would test germination rates of different mediums. Do you have any suggestions on seeding blends to try?

Caught in the act!

Context:  We have two cats.  One is a nibbler especially fond of the shoelaces on my dress shoes.  Poor thing, now that the laces are no more she had to go hunting for nourishment elsewhere.  Note: we do feed our cats regularly, despite what they will tell you.

Prior offences:  I had noticed in April that the pea shoots in the modules closest to the table were much shorter than the rest of the shoots.  Then I cleaned the litter box and deduced why.  I mounted barriers in front of the seedlings.  The peas recovered.

Redhanded:  This morning when I went down to water the seedlings, CAT had stealthily squeezed in between my barricades and was munching on my shallot seedlings!!

Suspect in custody.  

M.O.:  Now I wonder if the leeks that failed last year were in fact failures, or merely appetizers….

New New Zealand Spinach

Seeds and seedlings of New Zealand spinach.

When is a spinach not a spinach?  When it’s New Zealand spinach!

This is another “new to me” plant I’m trying out this year.  I was inspired by Zone 5 gardener Patrick from One Yard Revolution who grows this green in his backyard.

Reading up on starting this plant from seed, I followed advice to knick the seed husk (which is rather soft) and soak it in warm water prior to planting.  Seemed to work as I got seedlings around 2 weeks after planting.  I kept the little pot on top of the water heater as they are supposed to need heat to germinate.  They have slow and inconsistent germination so I wasn’t too disappointed that I only got 3 seedlings from 8 seeds.  More info here.

The silver lining to the fuss and bother of germinating is that this tastes like and can be used like (purportedly) spinach.  It is heat tolerant so it will come to harvest after my other spinaches have finished.

Any advice on eating and/or growing this plant?

Out with ’em!

First flats of seedlings hardening off in the mini-greenhouse.

The snow has not completely disappeared.  However, it’s six week prior to last frost here in my region of Canada, the sun is shining, and my seedlings are getting too big for their own good. It’s time to get them outside.

I will start hardening off the first flats of snap peas, red and yellow beets, cabbages, spinach, and lettuces in the mini-greenhouse this week.  I hope to get these in the ground on Earth Day weekend (April 21).

During the day, the lid and doors stay open on the structure but get closed up before supper since it still dips below freezing overnight. These veggies are cold tolerant so growing may slow but they will survive.  A week later they will be transplanted and covered with row cover.

Looking forward to getting into these into the ground.  What are your first vegetables in the ground?

Seedling thinning.

Before and after pictures of thinned lettuce seedlings.

I had to murder thin my lettuce seedlings. Usually sowing and then potting on for lots of lettuce is the way to go.  However, this year I was growing small quantities of different varieties so I sowed directly into the flat cells.  I wasn’t sure of the seed germination either so I added extra seed since this was saved seed from last year.  The results of which were cells chockablock with little baby lettuce plants.

Logically we all know, left to their own devices, this environment would stunt growth, be a breeding ground for fungal growth, yadda yadda.  With a steeled resolve, I plucked the weaklings out.  Other gardeners suggest using small scissors and snipping the stems so as not to disturb the soil around the roots.  I’m not up to the Queen of Hearts level of thinning yet, so I was doing good just to pull the defenseless babies extra seedlings out.

After a sizeable amount of plucked seedlings had formed I thought about the whole microgreen movement and decided it was time for an experimental snack.  I thought about veal as I was munching on lettuce babies and decided microgreens were not worth the mental wrangling or taste.  I’ll wait for a full grown salad thanks.

Live and Learn

Note to self: don’t plant your cabbages and your celeries in the same flat.

The cabbage seedlings are still growing. Outside, it’s still snowing.

The celery and celeriac are also growing, not at the same pace, nor will they go out into the garden at the same time as the cabbages.  So why, oh why are they sown in the same flat!!  Sowing at the same time does not equal planting at the same time.  Hopefully I’ll remember this lesson from this day forth.

Good thing the extra growth on the cabbage spurred my brain into action.  They were getting too large for their cells, and did I mention the snow going on outside?  So really, everything was going to plan.  Whose plan I have yet to figure out.

I potted on the cabbage, collards, and kohlrabi into larger 6 cell units and left the celeries in their own flat.  I’ll figure out what else to seed in vacated cabbage cells later.  Time to shovel the walks.

First seedlings of the season.

The winner is Kohlrabi!  This particular variety is Kossack. It is first to emerge this year. From my first seedings of cabbages, onions, and celeries, the brassicas have taken the early lead.  I think the leeks, however, will win at playing the long game.  There are 2 seeds of the brassicas in each cell (except where I got a little enthusiastic in the upper right corner cell) and each cell will be thinned to the strongest candidate.  (That is if I can maintain a ruthless mindset.  More often I can’t bear to thin, aka murder, the seedlings and end up planting out twice as much as intended.  I’m working on it.)

I’m trying multisown onions this year so each cell has 5-6 seeds each.  I have Tadorna leeks, Copra onions, and Conservor shallots sprouted under lights.  They will be sown as clumps in the garden.  Charles Dowding is a proponent of this method of growing onions.  I very much covet his garden and his 8-9 growing zone in Somerset, England so I shall try to get my garden to emulate his, or at least see if the alliums will.

Has anyone else had success with multi sown onions?